We Are the Solution (NSS): Preparing a healthier alternative to industrial broths
There's an ongoing problem in Senegal that's damaging the health of the population: the widespread consumption of industrial bouillon cubes. Since the 70s and 80s, the market for industrial bouillon has grown massively in Senegal and some other West African countries, thanks to persistent advertising on television and radio. This has led to an unconscious over-consumption of these industrial bouillon cubes in Senegalese household meals.
(According to a Reuters report, industrially-produced bouillon cubes have transformed cooking throughout the West African region, becoming an essential ingredient in many everyday dishes, including Côte d'Ivoire's "braised chicken" and Nigeria's spicy "jollof rice". Nestlé Maggi dominates the West African bouillon cube market, valued at $375 million by market research firm Fact.MR).
Research indicates that cooks now use five bouillon cubes in every dish. The cubes are extremely high in salt (40 to 50% of the recommended daily intake, according to Florence Foucaut, member of the Association Française des Diététiciens Nutritionnistes, AFDN). The result is an increase in the frequency and onset of diseases, such as cardiovascular disease, hypertension and kidney failure, which were previously unknown in most communities, particularly in rural areas. These commercially-produced cubes cause illnesses that West Africans were not even aware of.
It was this spread of industrial bouillon cubes that led us to propose a natural alternative with natural products, using ingredients and spices that were traditionally used before the 1970s. Leaders of the SSN movement in southern Senegal worked together to promote the consumption of healthy, locally-produced foods. Today, rural women producers offer a bouillon cube that we call Sum Pak in our localities.
Sum Pak is a naturally produced flavor enhancer with no chemical inputs. It is rich in protein, minerals and other health-promoting nutrients. We offer two types of broth: Shrimp Sum Pak, made with shrimp, dried fish, green onion leaves, salt, garlic, bell bell pepper, chili pepper, white sorrel calyx, lemon juice, bay leaves and ginger. The second contains the same ingredients as above, except that the shrimps are replaced by netou. (Nététou or Soumbala is a condiment frequently used in traditional West African cuisine. It is a pungent, fermented bean paste made from the fruit of the African carob tree, or Néré).
To make nététou or soumbala, we use large pots to boil the néré nuts, then use a pestle to shell the seeds in a mortar containing rice bran. (Traditionally, we used fine sand for this step, but now we prefer to use rice bran). We wash and dry the ingredients on tables fitted with sieves to ensure that they are free of any impurities. Then we use a mill to grind them into powder. We mix the ingredients according to a traditional recipe, then season with lemon juice, which helps preserve the product. Then we package and label the products before distributing them on the market. This process is very difficult and takes the women a few days.
Using this authentic seasoning enhances the taste of our meals, provides us with nutrients and improves our health and nutrition. Local production - with the installation of small shrimp-drying manufacturing units, for example - creates jobs and improves the incomes of women producers. It allows us to promote local know-how and increase the recognition and appreciation of local products, which in turn encourages the protection of our local environment - when we add value to our food, we care about maintaining the native Néré trees that are disappearing.
As part of our efforts to promote this product, we have conducted awareness-raising sessions with peasant leaders on the dangers of excessive use of industrialized broths and its impact on people's health. We conducted workshops with farmer leaders on the importance of promoting local food products. We trained farmer leaders in the production of natural Sum Pak broths and their use in cooking. We have also worked with community radio hosts and farmer leaders to promote Sum Pak on the radio in four local languages (Diola, French, Wolof and Mandinka). We set up culinary competitions to encourage women to prepare creations that are attractive to consumers, yet packed with nutrients to ensure good health. We organize tastings, exhibitions and sales at local and national forums on peasant seeds, agroecology and food sovereignty, as well as at fairs and festivals celebrating agroecology, rural women and special foods.
We're part of a seven-country network, and our sisters in other countries would like us to share more of our experience in producing our natural broths. Another notable success is that we now find that these natural broths are well accepted by consumers. At present, demand outstrips supply; we can't produce enough for consumers in Senegal.
Mariama Sonko gave a presentation at AFSA's 3rd Biennial Conference and Celebration of the Food System (October 27-29, 2020). Her speech has been translated from English to French and lightly edited for clarity and length. You can watch the full recording here. You can find more information on preparing soumbala here.
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